Patrick Evans-Hylton
Patrick Evans-Hylton
Coastal Culinary Connoisseur
Patrick Evans-Hylton is an award-winning food journalist based in Hampton Roads. Trained as a chef at Johnson & Wales University, Evans-Hylton has covered food and foodways through print, radio and television since 1995; he is senior editor for food and wine at Hampton Roads Magazine, the region's city and lifestyle publication, as well as executive editor for Virginia Wine Lover, the state's only wine and food magazine. He serves on the advisory board for Culinary Institute of Virginia, the Sensible Seafood Program at the Virginia Aquarium, the Old Beach Farmers Market, C-CAP (Careers through Culinary Arts Program, a program to guide at-risk high school youth into culinary careers) and March of Dime Signature Chef Auction. Evans-Hylton is active in the local food movement, feeding the hungry and mentoring culinary students. He is author of two food history books and two cookbooks, and has developed a spice blend with the flavors of the Chesapeake Bay. Find out more about Patrick - www.patrickevanshylton.com.

Author Entries


Cool Weather Comfort Food

Wednesday, November 9th, 2011 by Patrick Evans-Hylton

brunswick stewAs the weather cools, folks crave classic fall dishes, among them Brunswick Stew.

The dish, created in 1828 in Brunswick County, Virginia, according to legend, is open to interpretation and inspiration as ingredients go. Once rabbit and squirrel were primary components, while today it is chicken and pork. There are consistencies, however; most Brunswick Stews are tomato based and augment an animal protein with lima beans, corn, potatoes and often okra.

What is crafted is a rich, thick and hearty stew, full of complex and complimentary flavors ranging from savory to sweet to smoky. Make a big pot; leftovers are often better because as the dish sits, all those ingredients mesh and meld and become more unified. Cornbread is the quintessential accompaniment.

Our Brunswick Stew can be created with many local ingredients. Although it’s a bit tougher to source fresh items out-of-season, some area producers and farmers markets are open, even if on select days, in November and December.

The Virginia Beach Farmers Market  is operated year-round. The Old Beach Farmers Market  is seasonal, generally running Memorial Day through Labor Day, but there are special holiday markets on Nov. 19 and Dec. 17.

RECIPE: CLASSIC BRUNSWICK STEW

 CHICKEN INGREDIENTS

1 large (4-5 pounds) boiler chicken


1 large onion, unpeeled, quartered


3 carrots, unpeeled, quartered


3 ribs celery, quartered


2 cloves garlic, unpeeled, crushed


1 small bunch parsley


1 bay leaf


1 tablespoon whole peppercorns


1 teaspoon sea salt

 

STEW INGREDIENTS

4-6 slices bacon, chopped


4 cups chicken broth


3 pounds new potatoes, scrubbed and quartered


2 medium onions, peeled and chopped


3 tablespoons tomato paste


4-5 pounds chicken


1-1/2 quarts stewed or canned crushed tomatoes


2 cups prepared lima beans


2 cups corn kernels


1 tablespoon sugar


1/2 teaspoon salt


1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper


1/4 teaspoon ground red pepper


4 tablespoons butter

 

CHICKEN METHOD

Place chicken in a large stockpot and cover with water. Add onion, carrots, celery, garlic clove, parsley, bay leaf, peppercorns and sea salt. Cover pot and bring to a boil, then reduce heat to rolling boil and cook about 90 minutes until chicken is tender and meat is falling off the bone. Remove the pot from heat and allow to sit 10-15 minutes. Remove chicken from liquid and allow to cool; do not discard the chicken broth. Debone chicken and shred or chop the meat. Strain liquid to remove seasonings; cool, and skim the top of the liquid.

 STEW METHOD

In a large stockpot over high heat, add chopped bacon and stir until cooked. Return 4 cups of the chicken broth to the large stockpot; if you don’t have 3 full cups, compliment the reserved broth with additional chicken or vegetable stock, or water. Add potatoes and onion and bring to a boil and cook until potatoes begin to soften, about 10 minutes. Stir in tomato paste. Add chicken. Reduce to a simmer and add stewed/crushed tomatoes, lima beans, corn, sugar, salt, black pepper and red pepper. Stir well and simmer, uncovered, for about one hour, stirring occasionally; stew should be thick. Add additional broth or water if needed. Stir in butter and serve.

Yields 8-12

Pair this dish with a Petit Verdot, which is increasingly becoming a signature Virginia vintage. This red grape is often found in classic Bordeaux blends (including Meritage) but is increasingly popular as a single varietal. Deep purple in color, the nose and palate bring lush red fruits, violet, spices and nuances of tobacco and leather. Full of body and flavor, the wine pleasantly lingers on the palate.

 

pevanshyltonPatrick Evans-Hylton, a Johnson & Wales-trained chef, is a food authority on Chesapeake Bay regional cuisine and author of the upcoming book, “Dishing Up Virginia.” His work appears in print, television and radio. Read more of his adventures at food at www.PatrickEvansHylton.com.


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Local Fare At Its Finest

Thursday, August 18th, 2011 by Patrick Evans-Hylton

Coastal Culinary Connoisseur Patrick Evans-Hylton shares tips for selecting and storing fresh tuna, as well as a recipe for Seared Tuna Atop Peppery Greens with Virginia Goat Cheese, Bay Seasoned Petitas and Citrus Vinaigrette.

Running off the coastal waters of Virginia this time of year are tuna – large, fast, fleshy fish that can be enjoyed in scores of ways. During the summer months, we like a simply grilled piece of tuna atop peppery greens, accented with creamy and cooling local goat cheese, flavorful pepitas (pumpkin seeds) roasted to a golden brown, and drizzled with a crisp vinaigrette that pops with citrusy flavor.

Tuna offerings from a local farmers market

Tuna offerings from a local farmers market courtesy of the author

There are many species of tuna, and several varieties that can be found in the Atlantic. We look for fish that is a sensible choice; ones that are abundant, well-managed and fished or farmed in environmentally sound ways, or at least ones that are better choices than those that are overfished or otherwise non-sustainable.

The Virginia Aquarium & Marine Science Center  in Virginia Beach publishes a pocket guide outlining recommendations from their Sensible Seafood program; bigeye and yellowfin tuna are both on the “good alternatives” list.  

Look for local tuna now at farm markets across Virginia Beach

 

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Strawberries Have Flavored Virginia Beach for Four Centuries

Sunday, May 22nd, 2011 by Patrick Evans-Hylton

strawberriesA tad more than 404 years ago, Captain John Smith and his crew came ashore at present-day Cape Henry at the north end of Virginia Beach, beginning permanent English settlement of the New World. On April 26, 1607, they began to explore the land, finding many wonderful things to eat, including strawberries.

In writings from historian George Percy, who was with Smith during his travels, he notes exploring the area around the Lynnhaven River:

“Going a little further we came into a plat of ground full of fine and beautifull Strawberries, foure times bigger and better than ours in England.”

Berries grew wild in Virginia Beach, and throughout the region; the area in Hampton known today as Strawberry Banks was noted in 1619 by John Smith for the abundance of the fruit there. Later, strawberries would be cultivated, and plants shipped to England where their flavor was prized. The Virginia strawberry, or Fragaria virginiana, was one of two species of the fruit that were hybridized to create the domestic garden strawberry.

 Today, Chandler is the most popular variety grown in Virginia Beach, with Sweet Charlie being another favorite. Camarosa strawberries are also grown in the city. The berries are planted in late September, with harvest coming in May.

Because of mild climates and productive soils, the city is the largest strawberry producing county/city in Virginia, with annual crop values ranging from $750,000 to $1 million. And, because of the Virginia Beach’s affinity with the strawberry (a depiction of it is even on the city seal), the fruit is celebrated Memorial Day weekend annually at the Pungo Strawberry Festival. The event started in 1983, and draws an estimated 120,000 folks for a parade, music, a carnival, pie-eating contest, strawberry bake-off and other festivities.

Want to know where to grab some strawberries in Virginia Beach while they are in season? Want to know how to pick them, how to select them, and how to store them? How about a great Macerated Strawberries recipe? Then scroll down for a berry-good berry guide:

 

Virginia  Beach Strawberry Producers – U-Pick/Pre-Pick     

                     

 BayBreeze Farm, Pre-Pick Only, 1076 Sandbridge Rd., 757-721-3288

 Brookdale Farm, 2060 Vaughn Rd., 757-721-0558

 Cindy’s Produce, Pre-Pick Only, 2385 Harpers Rd., 757-427-2346

 Cromwell Farm, 3116 New Bridge Rd., 757-721-6226

 Cullipher Farm Market, 1444 Princess Anne Rd., 757-721-7456

 Flanagan Farm, Princess Anne Rd. at N. Muddy Creek Rd., 757-426-5585

 The Flip Flop Farmer, 3244 New Bridge Rd., 757-426-9908

 Henley Farm, 3513 Charity Neck Rd., 757-426-7501

 Henley Farm Market, Princess Anne Rd. at Indian River Rd., 757-426-6869

 Salem Berry Farm, 1763 Salem Rd., 757-818-3156

 Vaughn Farms Produce, 1258 Princess Anne Rd., 757-615-4888/ 757-426-6423

 

 

 

 

 

Source: www.vbgov.com/agriculture

 

 Strawberry Tips

 

 

 

 

 Take Five:  Essential Berry U-Pick Shopping Tips

 

1. Call first to make sure that the farm/farm market/farm stand is open and that the produce you are looking for is available. Especially with smaller operations, many factors can affect hours/days of operation and crop offerings.

2. Find out if containers are provided, or if you need to bring your own.

3. Dress appropriately; bring an umbrella in rain or shine. Wear comfortable shoes and light, loose-fitting clothing as well as a brimmed hat. Also bring sunscreen.

4. Bring water with you to remain hydrated.

5. Arrive early to avoid a field being picked-clean by the time you get there.

 

 Take Five:  Essential Berry Picking Tips 

 

1. Berries picked on cooler days or overcast days don’t bruise as easily. If it is going to be a warm, sunny day, try to pick as early as possible in the morning.

2. Only pick berries that are fully ripe, red and plump – but help the farmer by removing any berries that may be rotten or otherwise be damaged and placing them just off the path.

3. Hold the berry you are picking in the palm of your hand and pinch on the stem just above the cap with your thumbnail and forefinger and slightly turn and pull.

4. Don’t throw your berries in the container or they will bruise; place them in carefully. Likewise, don’t overfill the containers.

5. When a few containers fill, place them either under shade, in the car trunk or in the car floorboard to avoid them being in direct sun.

 

 Take Five:  Essential Berry Storage Tips 

 

1. Do not wash berries until you are ready to use them; this will help prevent rot.

2. If you are not going to use berries right away, remove any damaged/rotting fruit and store the in several small containers to prevent overcrowding and refrigerate covered loosely with paper or cloth towels.

3. If you need to prep berries for use within a day or so, wash gently under cool running water and place on paper towels to dry. Cut off the caps and store in a loosely packed bowl in the refrigerator covered loosely with paper or cloth towels.

4. If you need to store berries for a longer term, freeze them. To freeze so that berries retain their shape, wash gently under cool running water and place on paper towels to drain then before freezing pat dry. Do not freeze too many berries at once or it will overtax the freezer; place berries on a lipped baking sheet evenly space and, once frozen, transfer to airtight freezer bags or containers. Continue until all berries are frozen.

5. You can freeze berries in bulk by washing them gently under cool running water and place on paper towels to dry. Cut off the caps and slice or crush the fruit and place in a bowl. Add sugar to taste, stir to incorporate and transfer to airtight freezer bags or containers.

 

 Recipe:  Macerated Strawberries

 

This recipe, which combines sweetness from sugar, acidity from balsamic vinegar, and green flavors from mint, extracts wonderful flavor profiles in the berries, and makes a great ingredient to scoop over ice cream, pound cake, a cream biscuit, waffles, pancakes, as a filling for crepes, or served in a bowl topped with whipped cream and a butter cookie on the side.

 

Ingredients:

 2 pounds strawberries, capped and cut into quarters

1 tablespoon sugar

2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

8 fresh mint leaves, finely chopped

 Method:

Place berries in a large bowl and add sugar and balsamic vinegar. Gently toss the berries to coat, cover, and refrigerate at least a half-hour. Before service, add the chopped mint leaves and gently toss. Makes about 4 cups.

For best results, use aged Modena or other premium balsamic vinegar.

 

Patrick Evans-Hylton, a Johnson & Wales University trained chef, is an award-winning Hampton Roads-based food writer and educator and author of seven books, including the upcoming Dishing Up Virginia, an examination of the food and foodways of the state through recipes, travel and history. Read more of his adventures in food at www.PatrickEvansHylton.com.


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This Stew Sham-Rocks and Rolls

Tuesday, March 15th, 2011 by Patrick Evans-Hylton

St. Patrick's Day Sham-rock StewSpring is here, and soon folks will be enjoying the surf and sand of Virginia Beach! But for now, there is still enough hint of coolness in the air to enjoy a warm soup or stew.  And what better than an Irish Lamb Stew, a great meal to celebrate the Yuengling Shamrock Marathon which includes the Anthem Half Marathon, TowneBank 8K and other events on March 19 and 20.

Our stew includes the rich flavor of lamb, an assortment of root vegetables and a bottle of good Irish Ale. If you want to substitute beef for lamb, you can and if you don’t want the ale in your stew (most of the alcohol burns off, leaving only the brew’s flavor), you can use an equal amount of water instead.

 

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The Beach Report – February 4, 2011

Friday, February 4th, 2011 by Patrick Evans-Hylton

 

ShoreLines is very excited to introduce our newest Life the Life blogger, local culinary expert Patrick Evans-Hylton. Patrick, a Johnson & Wales University trained chef, is an award-winning Hampton Roads-based food writer, educator and author of seven books, including the upcoming Dishing Up Virginia, an examination of the food and foodways of the state through recipes, travel and history. Read more of his adventures in food at www.PatrickEvansHylton.com

 

Winter in Virginia Beach Rocks with this Fish

 

cropped rockOne of Virginia Beach’s most remarkable times of the year, culinarily, comes in the winter. Although rockfish, also known as striped bass, can be found in other seasons, this time of year they are plentiful as the stock migrate through the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay just off Cape Henry.

Rockfish has long had a fanciful history in the region. Captain John Smith, in his descriptive writing style, noted that in the early 17th century, the fish was so plentiful in the Bay that one could walk across the water on their backs. So enjoyed was rockfish that one of the first conservations statutes in the New World was written in 1639 to protect the species.

Today, there is even a celebration of the fishing of and cooking of rockfish – the first Million Dollar Rockfish Challenge took place in December, 2010, with teams from all over out catching the fish for prize money, and amateur and professional chefs cooking it up for some top dollar purses.

It is easy to see why rockfish is so popular – the white, flaky meat has a mild flavor and adapts to many preparation methods and cooking styles. Look for it on menus at local restaurants generally sautéed; the moist, succulent flesh literally melts in your mouth.

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